Northland

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Northland

Northland stretches from the Auckland region right the way to the top of New Zealand. It is a long and relatively narrow region – in some parts it is little more than an hour coast to coast and much less as you hit the final elongated peninsular. The coast varies greatly between the two sides, on the west it is mainly regular with a few large inlet waterways providing natural harbours and there are many kilometres of windswept beach; whereas on the east coast it is a much more complex coastline with many bays and islands providing in many ways a more interesting coast which also has a gentler climate.


Northland is often referred to as “The Birthplace of the Nation” and has a number of factors which support that claim. The legendary Maori explorer, Kupe, was one of the earliest of Maori to sail into this part of the South Pacific and it is claimed that he made landfall on the west coast within the Hokianga Harbour. Throughout Northland there are many locations of geological interest which provide evidence of early Maori settlements. In 1769, Captain James Cook first sighted New Zealand and sailed down the east coast into the Bay of Islands where he paused to re-provision before heading back out to sea and continuing his circumnavigation. Some years later the first Christian sermon was preached on the northern shores of the same Bay by the Reverend Samuel Marsden. In 1841 the British and Maori signed the famous Treaty of Waitangi. It was this document that really defined the founding of a new nation, and bound the history of Maori and non-Maori (or Pakeha) together. The building where the treaty was signed still stands today and serves as a museum to those important events. Subsequent to the Treaty, many more settlers arrived from all corners of the British Isles. At Waipu, just south of the township of Whangarei, a contingent of Scottish peoples settled and to this day their descendents still observe elements of Scottish culture, in particular their “Highland Games” are held each year at the beginning of January.


Other key examples of Maori and European settlement can be found at Kerikeri (Maori pa site, Stone Store and Kemp Mission House buildings), Waitangi (the Treaty House still stands and makes for a fascinating visit), Russell (numerous colonial style buildings, the oldest surviving church in New Zealand complete with bullet holes from the Maori / British skirmishes, infamous Flagstaff) and the islands within the Bay of Islands also have numerous archaeological sites of interest. The main Urupukapuka Island is certainly worthy of a day’s visit – it has a beautiful setting at the heart of the Bay and will prove very rewarding.


Driving north from Auckland there are essentially two alternative routes – State Highway 16 (SH16) takes the west coast route, and State Highway 1 (SH1) on the east side. A delightful way of getting the most from a visit to Northland is to follow one of these northwards, and return along the other – this has been christened “the Twin Coast Discovery”. SH1 can be picked up immediately from the Auckland Harbour Bridge, and after the small townships of Warkworth and Wellsford, continues into Northland. Waipu, and the unfolding views of the east coast are the only things of note until reaching Whangarei.


Whangarei at 160 kilomteres north of Auckland is a sizeable town of 48,000 inhabitants, and the largest in the Northland region. It is a modern city, with plenty of commercial services but also a peaceful marina in the “Town Basin” and forested hill setting. The Whangarei District also takes in 270 kilometres of often beautiful coastline with many bays and beaches to explore. The climate is a touch milder than Auckland, and is the start of the North’s sub tropical zone. Along the northern coast is Tutukaka - an iconic dive centre – and off shore the marine reserve and main diving attraction known as the Poor Knights Islands. These islands are also a nature reserve above water level especially important as they are home to the world’s only surviving dinosaur – the tuatara – an ancient reptile which somehow has survived in a similar form for over 200 million years.


Whangarei is also famous for it’s connection with a popular New Zealand TV programme “The Lion Man” which chronicles the real life escapades of  the owner (and star) of Zion Wildlife Gardens and his big cats ! If you haven’t seen the series yet, don’t miss the chance to see the man and his animals in the flesh, their close relationship is really quite unique.


Northwards along State Highway 1 the town of Kawakawa is famous for it’s highly decorated public toilet facilities ! Designed by an artist, Huntertwasser,  a German immigrant, they really are worth a visit ! From the initial approach to Kawakawa a right turn will follows SH16 directly to the beautiful Bay of Islands.


The Bay of Islands is a must for visitors to the region, and indeed to New Zealand. Rich in history, it is also a holiday destination par excellence. The beautiful coastal scenery is backdrop to many outdoor activities including, sailing, cruising, kayaking, fishing, swimming, diving, parasailing, skydiving, golfing, walking and many more. The famous American author, Zane Grey, was the first outsider to discover (and promote) the Bay’s potential as a deep sea fishing centre with record catches of marlin, kingfish and yellowtail. Today there are still numerous fishing competitions on the calendar, and plenty of good size fish to catch.


Russell a small waterfront township (population 1,000) is at the heart of the Bay of Islands and has a majestic position in the sheltered Kororareka Bay. Russell has lots of history and a super heritage trail to follow and explore the town. Russell has been home to early Maori, whalers, sailors and missionaries. Nearby Okiato was the site chosen for the first capital of New Zealand, although within a year this honour had been moved to Auckland. Russell is an absolutely charming place as it retains a real colonial flavour and is a must for all visitors to New Zealand. There are several delightful cafes and restaurants running along the waterfront – a fantastic place to relax and watch the world go by !


Paihia across the water from Russell is mostly a modern seaside resort popular with families and younger generation.

Kerikeri inland from the north-west corner of the Bay (and on State Highway 10) is a thriving market town (population approaching 10,000) and also proud of it’s heritage. Here you can find the oldest standing stone building in New Zealand (the Stone Store) and the oldest surviving mission house (Kemp House – 1822). Nearby there is a modern replica of a pre-European Maori village, and an archaeologically interesting Pa site on a small hill overlooking the Kerikeri River Basin. Kerikeri has a small domestic airport that provides good flight connections to Auckland (45 minutes flight).


State Highway 10 travels north and meets up with SH1 just short of the final peninsular leading to Cape Reinga. Along SH10 there are a number of places of great interest, firstly an opportunity to meet the giant Kauri trees in the Puketi Forest, and then between Kerikeri and Coopers Beach there are some beautiful east coast beaches, namely: Matauri Bay (site of the Rainbow Warrior wreck), Te Ngaire, Mahinipua, Tauranga Bay, Taupo Bay (one of the prettiest beaches in the whole of NZ !) and the Pohutakawa tree fringed white sands of Coopers Beach. Whangaroa Harbour is interesting for it’s fishing connections, and for the harbour scenery which in the outer reaches resembles fiordland ! St. Paul’s Rock is a short steep walk from Whangaroa but rewards with stunning views of the harbour.


North from Whangaroa is the small fishing township of Mangonui, well worth a visit for the beautiful harbour, lunchtime fish and chips, and the lesser known but fabulous views from the hill (Maori pa site) overlooking the town.

Further north on the east coast the Karikari Peninsular is worth a diversion to visit the beautiful remote beach at Matai Bay, and perhaps to visit the winery at the modern Carrington development. Back to SH10, and the road now finally meets up with SH1 for the last leg to Cape Reinga – part of which is unsealed but generally sound surface. Cape Reinga, a spiritual place for Maori, is the very top of New Zealand and it’s lighthouse famous as it overlooks the meeting of the seas - the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean in a swirling and turbulent area of water clearly visible just off the coastline.


The only way from the Cape is back south, a journey rewarded down the west coast with super “Ninety Mile” beach (accessible at Waipapkauri) and if you follow State Highway 12 a quaint car ferry across the Hokianga Harbour to Rawene.


 


 



South of Rawene the Kauri Coast and especially Waipoua Forest beckons, for here is the largest Kauri tree in the world – the celebrated Tane Mahuta (some 2,000 years old).


Continuing south the SH12 passes through Dargaville (population 5,000) and Matakohe (excellent Kauri & Pioneer Museum) to rejoin the southbound State Highway 1 at Brynderwyn.

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