Coromandel

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Coromandel

The Coromandel Peninsular (aka “the Coromandel”) lies to the south east of Auckland, and forms the eastern arm of the Hauraki Gulf terminating in dramatic fashion at Cape Colville. It is a region of true natural beauty – with extensive rainforest and bush clad hills but also many lovely golden sand beaches. Despite it’s proximity to Auckland city (some two hours drive away) and Hamilton (just one and a half hours drive) the Coromandel retains a charming relaxed lifestyle much loved by New Zealanders.


Being a peninsular the climate is maritime with mild winters and lovely warm summers, making it a favourite escape for city dwellers. The landscape is quite rugged, with a hilly forest clad interior (the Coromandel Ranges) and an extensive rocky coastline interspersed with numerous sandy bays and coves. It is a paradise for walkers, water sports enthusiasts and beach lovers.

The region was home to some of the early Maori explorers, and later became famous as the location (at mercury bay) of Captain James Cook’s visit and attempts to plot the transit of Mercury across the Sun’s path in 1769. Some years later in the 19th Century the region became a real hive of activity as the local natural resources of timber and kauri gum were exploited. In 1867 gold was discovered in the bed of a stream (Kuranui Stream) near Thames and this heralded a period of intense activity. The peak years for the Thames area being 1867 to 1871, but these were followed by further discoveries in Waihi (1875) and Waikino leading to many years of exploitation.

By the early 1900’s the intense interest in timber, gum and gold were waning as available resources became more scarce. The Coromandel began to return to it’s slower more peaceful ways and many of the old workings were gradually returned to nature. Today the main industries are agriculture, fishing, arts and crafts, and of course tourism. Although gold is still mined in the region even today !

Waihi, and it’s associated beach resort, Waihi Beach, is at the junction of State Highway 2 (linking Central North Island to the east Coast region) and State Highway 25, the Pacific Coast highway, which from here heads north up the Coromandel Peninsular. Waihi is a gold mining town, perhaps one of the most famous in the country, and remains so today with active production still taking place. However the town is much quieter today than it was in it’s heyday. West of Waihi lies the Karangahake Gorge an impressive natural cutting through the southern slopes on the ranges, where you can experience some of the old gold mine workings and relics. A short distance north of the Gorge at the meeting of State Highways 2 and 26 is a small township very famous to New Zealanders called Paeroa. It is here that the famous kiwi soft drink of “Lemon and Paeroa” was first bottled. And, to remind everyone of the fact, in the town there is a 7 metre high statue of that famous drinks bottle ! There is also a steam train that runs from Waihi to Waikino just short of the Gorge. Waikino has interesting gold mining exhibits, and a real arts and crafts community. Waihi Beach on the east coast has several kilometres of fine sands and is great family beach for safe swimming and surfing.

North from Waihi along the Pacific Coast Highway is the small township of Whangamata home to just over 3,500 people and a holiday destination for many kiwi families. There is safe swimming and surfing off the lovely beach, and inland the Coromandel Forest Park and Tairua Forest provide a fantastic backdrop. Many short walks inland are available and will reward with the discovery of old gold mining relics.

For many Thames is the gateway to the Coromandel, resting at the foot of the Firth of Thames and the start of the Coromandel Ranges. It provides a good base as most locations on the peninsular can be managed as a day out from here. Thames has a population of around 7,500 people and has good facilities being a commercial and local services centre for the surrounding area.

Travelling from Thames along State Highway 25a in an anticlockwise direction will take you across the Ranges (a good introduction) and down into the east coast township of Tairua, just across the Tairua harbour from Pauanui. Tairua is a small coastal town of just over 1,200 permanent residents, and provides a safe haven for fishing vessels in the delightful harbour. In the summer months many New Zealanders come here to enjoy their holiday homes and kiwi baches. From Tairua the coastal highway heads north to discover the wonders of the east coast of the Coromandel.

Between Tairua and the next main township of Whitianga, there are the beautiful beaches of Hot Water Beach, Hahei, Cathedral Cove and Cooks Beach – all worth a visit. Hot Water Beach is a famous outlet for an underground reservoir of hot water created by volcanic activity. There are two springs located right on the beach and these provide much amusement for families as they dig into the sands to release a pool of very warm water. Hahei is a lovely beach itself, but also provides the access point for Cathedral Cove, which is a short walk along the Cathedral Cove Marine Reserve track. A must do for any visitor to the Coromandel peninsular. Just further north lies Cooks Beach, named after the one and only Captain James Cook. It is a lovely spot to relax and maybe take a picnic.

Whitianga, a township of some 4,000 people, is a real focal point on the east coast and has a lovely setting within Mercury Bay. It is also quite a lively town in the summer months. From the town’s wharf you can take a small passenger ferry across the water to Ferry Landing and Flaxmill Bay, or even further on the “shuttle” to Cooks Beach, Hot water Beach and Cathedral Cove. Whitianga and surrounds were visited by the early Maori explorer Kupe, who is said to have settled here several hundred years ago. Of course the area first came to (European) prominence when in 1769 Captain James Cook anchored in the Bay to observe the transit of Mercury across the Sun’s path. However, Cook and crew were to be disappointed as the cloudy weather conditions were against them. This didn’t stop the naming of Mercury Bay and subsequently nearby Cooks Bay and Cooks Beach.

Travelling north along the Coastal Highway will bring you to Te Rerenga at the Whangapoua Harbour along which lies Matarangi where a purpose built resort complete with excellent golf course is located. The highway now turns west and crossing the Ranges arrives at beautiful Coromandel Town (or Coromandel for short).

Coromandel, named after the ship HMS Coromandel which sailed here in 1820, was once a busy port handling much of the movement of goods for the gold mining and timber industries on the Peninsular. The town is at the heart of a beautiful harbour which contains numerous small islands looking out onto the Hauraki Gulf.

The Coastal Highway heads due south passing through a number of small coastal villages on it’s return to Thames.

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